What to Do If Your Faucet Starts Leaking - 8 Easy Home Repair Tips

That drip. You hear it at 2 a.m. and again over breakfast. Maybe it's a slow bead of water rolling off the spout, or a spray from under the sink that's quietly ruining the cabinet floor. Either way, you want it to stop, and you don't want to pay a plumber $150 to tighten one nut.

Good news: most faucet leaks are one of a handful of problems, and many can be fixed with a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, and about 20 minutes. This guide walks you through what to do if your faucet starts leaking, why it happens, and eight repair tips ranked from "try this first" to "call someone."

One thing before you grab a tool. If water is spraying or pooling near electrical outlets, or if you can't shut the water off at all, treat it as an emergency. Shut off your main water valve and call a professional.

The Problem: water where it shouldn't be

A leaking faucet is water escaping a seal that's supposed to hold. It might drip from the spout when the handle is closed, weep from the base of the faucet onto the counter, or run down the pipes under the sink.

Here's why it matters beyond the noise. A steady drip can waste a surprising amount of water over a month, and a leak under the sink can rot the cabinet, warp flooring, and grow mold long before you notice. The longer you wait, the more you pay.

The common mistake is reaching for the wrench and cranking everything tighter. Over-tightening cracks washers, strips threads, and turns a cheap fix into a replacement job. The other mistake is ignoring a slow leak because "it's just a drip." Slow leaks are the ones that quietly do the most damage.

Why Does My Faucet Leak in the First Place?

Almost every faucet leak traces back to a worn part, a loose fitting, or mineral buildup. That's it.

Inside your faucet, water is held back by rubber or ceramic seals. Every time you turn the handle, those seals rub against something. After thousands of on-off cycles, rubber hardens and cracks. Ceramic discs can chip. Springs lose their tension. In hard-water areas, calcium and lime add grit that grinds seals down faster.

Then there's water pressure. If your home's pressure runs high, it stresses every seal in the system. And temperature swings make metal parts expand and contract, which slowly loosens connections.

A leak from the spout usually means a worn cartridge, washer, or O-ring. A leak at the base often means a loose packing nut or a dried-out O-ring. A leak under the sink is usually a loose supply line or a failing connection. Knowing where it leaks tells you what to fix.

The Solutions: your realistic options

You don't have to fix everything yourself, and you don't have to call a pro for everything either. Here's the honest menu.

1. Tighten the packing nut (the two-minute fix)

On many older two-handle faucets, a drip is just a loose packing nut under the handle. Pop off the decorative cap, tighten the nut a quarter turn, and test. Free, fast, and it works more often than you'd expect. Skip it if the nut is already snug.

2. Replace the washer, O-ring, or cartridge

For compression faucets, a new rubber washer costs a dollar or two. For cartridge faucets (most modern single-handle models), a replacement cartridge runs roughly $10-$30. This is the most common real fix, and it solves most spout drips. The catch: you need the exact model number, which is usually stamped on the faucet body or found in the manual.

3. Clean or replace the aerator

If water sprays sideways or the flow looks weak and messy, the aerator at the tip of the spout may be clogged with mineral grit. Unscrew it, soak it in vinegar, rinse, and reattach. Cheap, easy, and often overlooked.

4. Re-seat or replace the valve seat

On older faucets, the valve seat is the surface the washer presses against. If it's rough or corroded, a new washer won't help. You can re-grind it with a seat tool or replace it. This is a slightly bigger job, but still DIY-friendly for a careful beginner.

5. Re-caulk or replace the base O-ring

If water seeps around the base of the faucet onto the counter, the O-ring or the seal under the base has failed. Replacing the O-ring or applying fresh plumber's putty or silicone usually fixes it.

6. Tighten or replace supply lines

Leaks under the sink are often loose supply line connections. Hand-tighten, then a quarter turn with a wrench. If the line is cracked or the fitting is corroded, replace the line. A braided stainless line costs around $10-$20.

7. Replace the faucet entirely

If your faucet is old, corroded, or you've fixed it twice in a year, replacement is often the smarter spend. A basic faucet runs $50-$150; a nicer one more. It's a half-day job for a confident DIYer, and you get a warranty on the whole unit.

8. Call a plumber

Some jobs are worth handing off: leaks inside a wall, a seized shutoff valve, corroded pipes, or anything you've tried twice and can't fix. A plumber typically charges $75-$150 just to show up, plus parts and labor. If you'd rather not guess, the trusted local provider directory can point you to vetted pros near you.

The Best Choice Depends on Your Situation

There's no single right answer here, and anyone who says otherwise is selling something.

If it's a simple drip from the spout and you're comfortable with basic tools, start with tips 1 and 2. That solves the large majority of leaks for under $30.

If water is leaking at the base or under the sink, your priority is stopping water damage, not saving money. Tighten what you can, but don't leave it. And if you rent, stop here and call your landlord. You shouldn't be paying for repairs that aren't yours.

If your faucet is more than 15 years old and has already been repaired once, replacement usually beats another patch. If you see rust, cracking, or water inside a wall, call a plumber today. That's not a "this weekend" job.

Your Step-by-Step Action Plan

Follow these in order. Don't skip step one.

1. Shut off the water. Look under the sink for the shutoff valves and turn them clockwise. No valves? Shut off the main.
2. Open the faucet to drain remaining water and relieve pressure.
3. Plug the drain so small parts don't vanish down the pipe.
4. Find the leak source. Spout, base, or under-sink? This tells you which fix to try.
5. Gather your tools: adjustable wrench, screwdriver, replacement parts, and a towel.
6. Take a photo before you disassemble anything. Your future self will thank you.
7. Replace the likely culprit (washer, O-ring, or cartridge), then reassemble.
8. Turn the water back on slowly and test at low pressure first.
9. Watch for a full minute. A drip can take a moment to show up.
10. If it still leaks, stop and reassess. Repeated attempts on the same part usually mean the faucet needs replacing, not more tightening.

For more step-by-step guides on household problems, the practical guides section covers everything from burst pipes to power outages.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Cranking every nut as tight as possible. Fix: snug is enough. Over-tightening cracks washers and threads.

Skipping the shutoff step. Fix: always turn off the water first, even for a "quick" fix.

Buying the wrong replacement part. Fix: write down the faucet's brand and model number before you shop.

Ignoring a leak under the sink because it's "small." Fix: put a bucket under it and fix it this week, not next month.

Forcing a stuck valve or corroded fitting. Fix: if it won't budge with gentle pressure, call a pro before you snap it.

Forgetting to check the shutoff valve itself. Fix: if the valve under the sink is seized or dripping, that's your next fix.

Not knowing where your main shutoff is. Fix: find it today, before you need it. This is basic home knowledge, and it belongs on the same mental list as your emergency numbers by country.

The Expert Takeaway

The single most important lesson: find the leak's location before you touch a tool. Where the water appears tells you which part failed, and that saves you from guessing, over-tightening, and buying the wrong parts. Most faucet leaks are a cheap fix done right the first time.

FAQ

How much does it cost to fix a leaking faucet? If you DIY, usually under $30 in parts. A plumber typically charges $75-$150 for the visit plus parts. Prices vary by region, so get a quote first.

Can I fix a leaking faucet myself? Yes, most spout drips and under-sink leaks are beginner-friendly. Leaks inside a wall, seized valves, or corroded pipes are best left to a professional.

Why does my faucet leak only sometimes? Intermittent leaks often point to a seal that's worn unevenly, temperature-related expansion, or water pressure that spikes. It still needs fixing, even if it's not constant.

Should I repair or replace my faucet? Repair if it's under 10-15 years old and this is the first problem. Replace if it's older, corroded, or you've fixed it more than once recently.

How do I stop a faucet leak right now, temporarily? Shut off the supply valve, dry the area, and wrap the leaking joint with plumber's tape or a towel and bucket as a stopgap. Then fix it properly or call a pro.

This article is general information, not professional plumbing advice. For leaks you can't safely reach or stop, contact a licensed plumber or your landlord.

Want the trusted steps for this and similar situations? Browse the full set of practical guides, read more practical-knowledge articles, or check the emergency numbers for your country so you are ready if something goes wrong.